No hace falta más que presionar un poco el bonito con la pala y ver cómo se separan las lascas, o dar el primer corte al
flat iron que descubre el rosado uniforme de su interior para darse cuenta de que en La Mesa hay cocina. Mucha. Al frente de la misma, Álvaro Romero, quien ha pasado por lugares de la altura del Europeo.
En realidad, la certeza de que hay cocina se aprecia desde la carta: muy breve, apenas tres entradas y cuatro principales, como diciendo "no me complico ni te complico haciéndote elegir: hay estas cosas y cualquiera va a estar muy bien hecha". Efectivamente, platos que mantienen la sencillez y una ejecución de nivel.
Como la carta es tan corta, en un par de visitas nos la hemos podido recorrer entera. De las entradas, me quedo con el fresco y sabroso tártaro vegetal, con base de betarraga (en la foto inicial). También notables las papas rosti con mariscos, en nuestro caso unas machas bien blandas. Algo menos me convencieron los nuggets de mollejas, quizás estas últimas pasando desapercibidas en el conjunto.
Para los principales, cuatro opciones de proteína con un denominador común: el punto exacto de cocción. Rosado y jugoso el flat iron, al igual que las suculentas costillas de cordero (u oveja, como reza la carta); perfecto el bonito, como indicaba al inicio; y, casi lo más meritorio por infrecuente, un medio pollo impecable, desde el ala a la pechuga, si asomo de sequedad.
Las opciones sí son diversas en cuanto a los acompañamientos, primando los vegetales: por el tamaño de los platos de fondo, conviene combinar un par de ellas, como la berenjena o las cebollas asadas. También interesantes los postres: la mousse de chocolate
Óbolo o el manjar del cielo.
Por increíble que suene, debo confesar que no puedo hablar de la carta de vinos. Y la culpable es Corta Corriente, la fantástica Hazy IPA de
Tamango Brebajes que ha sido un enorme descubrimiento para mí: frescor, turbiedad, intensidad. Tremenda.
En fin, un recién llegado - apenas un par de semanas abierto - pero de muy buen pronóstico. Claridad de ideas, un local informal pero agradable y, sobre todo, mucha cocina. Para seguirlo de cerca, sin duda.
[
La Mesa / Alonso de Córdova 2767, Vitacura /
Ubicación]
(Foto del local tomada del Instagram del restaurante)
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