Origen Bistró (Santiago): técnica europea al servicio del producto chileno

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La carne del pecho de chancho se deshace en el plato y luego su grasa se derrite en la boca, como rindiéndose a la más mínima presión de tenedor, primero, y de lengua y paladar, después. El chucrut casero, templado y con un toque de tomate, le da al cerdo el contrapunto de acidez necesario. Una papa rostizada forma la base de una preparación redonda, sabrosa.

Esa y las demás carnes salen de la cocina a la vista en la que oficia Ignacio Ovalle, justo al frente de los grandes ventanales de un tercer piso que, asomándose desde la altura a Ricardo Cumming, le proporcionan a la sala del bistró - adobe y ladrillo visto en un único espacio para unas cuarenta personas - una cálida luminosidad al sol del mediodía. Al fondo, una gran barra tras la cual se exhiben las docenas de referencias de una carta de vinos cuidadísima, de precio muy contenido y con bastantes opciones por copa.


Desde hace apenas unas semanas, Origen viene a completar los espacios de la vieja casona de Cumming 94, que aloja ahora tres propuestas gastronómicas. En el primer piso, Caleta 94, una picá del mar a la que le debo un post; en el segundo, una marisquería clásica: Squella. A completar y a complementar, porque al producto del mar y las preparaciones básicas contrapone principalmente carnes, y técnica, mucha y muy buena técnica europea. Se notan el oficio y la trayectoria.

El bistró trabaja con una carta acotada - una docena de opciones entre salados y dulces - que va variando en función de la materia prima que entregan los pequeños productores con los que trabaja Ignacio: plateada, cordero, ciervo, lengua, coliflor o espárragos se ofrecían en la lista del día.


Comenzamos el almuerzo con un tártaro de filete Angus, con foie, erizos y un aderezo cítrico en el que ya se notaba la mano que se dejaría ver en los fondos. Después, un clásico de la cocina chilena, los tallarines con lengua, se beneficiaba de un estofado perfecto que dejaba la lengua tiernísima, así como de un intenso y concentrado confit de tomate. Igualmente impecable el punto del confit de pato, crocante por fuera y bien blando por dentro, sobre el puré de zapallo camote y una tapenade. Con el pecho de chancho que describía al inicio, una exhibición de dominio de los puntos de cocción con un trío de carnes tan distintas.



Pese a la contundencia de los salados - que acompañamos con una copa de Amaral Chardonnay, para el tártaro, y otra de Von Siebenthal Carabantes para los fondos -, nos quedó espacio para una leche asada de manjar casero, más terrenal.


Últimamente agota, cansa hasta la saciedad que algunas palabras se nombren en vano en cada presentación de un nuevo restaurante en Santiago. Bistró, cocina de mercado o producto chileno saturan las reseñas de cada apertura pervirtiendo términos que merecerían otro respeto, otro nivel de exigencia. Si realmente quieres experimentar, de verdad, esos tres términos y un gran sabor, visita Origen Bistró: ahí sí.

[Origen Bistró / Ricardo Cumming, 94 piso 3 (Santiago Centro) / Ubicación]

(Foto de la cocina tomada del Instagram del restaurante)

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