NaDo (A Coruña) o la lógica de la trayectoria

175

Mi afición desmedida por la gastronomía se remonta, más o menos, al año 2006. Por aquel entonces arrancaba con este blog y comenzaba, tímidamente al principio, a compartir mis experiencias. Esto, sobre La Máquina en Lugones (Asturias), fue lo primero que escribí de un restaurante: una oda a una casa de comidas, a la fabada y al arroz con leche.

Con el paso del tiempo, ayudado por la curiosidad que me ha llevado a probar y probar, fui aprendiendo que lo importante es el cocinero, no el restaurante; que la vocación, el criterio, el saber hacer, el tener las cosas claras son permanentes y sólidos, mientras que la moda es efímera y superflua.



[Estas dos fotos del restaurante y la primera de la raya, más abajo, son de Sole Felloza]

En aquellos años, dos figuras protagonizaban la escena gastronómica gallega y alumbraban una brillante generación de cocineros de la que ahora disfrutamos desde Ferrol hasta Cambados, desde O Grove hasta Lalín. Al abrigo de Pepe Solla y Marcelo Tejedor, surgían nombres fundamentales en el presente de la cocina de Galicia. Entre ellos, Iván Domínguez.

La primera vez que me crucé con Iván fue en aquella gloriosa xantanza en Casa Marcelo, hace casi nueve años, todavía en un papel secundario. Tres años después, también en una xantanza, nos comimos el mar de Carril en el Loxe Mareiro. Ya al frente de la cocina - abierta, como la de NaDo y la de Marcelo; casi continuidad de la gran mesa común - nos dio un recital de producto, de lo que daban la zona y el verano: ya presentes los escabeches, los fuegos, los puntos perfectos.

En 2015, el nuevo lugar de encuentro fue el coruñés Alborada, durante muchos años mi restaurante de referencia en la ciudad desde que irrumpió en escena de la mano de Luis Veira. Escribía de aquella cena que había sido "un magnífico ejercicio de versatilidad y madurez, abordando desde un sutil tratamiento del producto (las espléndidas cigalas prácticamente crudas) hasta la cocina más tradicional (el jarrete estofado con patatas)". La visita anual a Alborada desde el lejano Chile - la perspectiva que da el tiempo - mostraba cómo esa versatilidad y madurez se iban consolidando, fiables.





La última cena en Alborada sobre la que escribía, en 2017, trataba de sintetizar la idea de su cocina en el postre final: "el flan es la síntesis perfecta de lo que ocurre en Alborada. El flan es un flan. Sin más. Un flan. Pero vaya flan, de quedarnos mirando los unos a los otros en la mesa. La mejor prueba de que lo sencillo puede ser sublime. De que hacer lo sencillo sublime es extremadamente complejo".

Hace unos días tuve la suerte de que un viaje profesional a España coincidiera con la apertura de NaDo, el primer proyecto personal de Iván. Y, por supuesto, a conocerlo nos fuimos. Manolo Gago describe muy bien lo que se puede encontrar en NaDo: básicamente, la coherencia con una trayectoria que he tenido la fortuna de seguir durante la última década.




Allí estaba esa cocina abierta, protagonista indiscutible entre unas paredes de piedra con mucha historia gastronómica. Allí estaba esa lamprea, delicada bajo el escabeche. La raya a la brasa, sabrosa y de punto impecable, con la salsa de sidra. Estaban también los berberechos al natural, la ensaladilla con peixe porco a la brasa o el jabalí. Estaba la carne asada de toda la vida, con las patatitas redondas y amarillas, deshaciéndose perfecta en la boca. Estaba la escogida carta de vinos que muestra el compromiso con la #MilitanciaAtlántica. Y estaba el flan. Sí, el mismo flan, el que da fe de que hacer lo sencillo sublime es extremadamente complejo. El que da fe de que lo importante es la trayectoria.

[NaDo / Callejón de la Estacada, 9 - A Coruña / 981.979433 / Ubicación]

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