NaDo (A Coruña) o la lógica de la trayectoria

48

Mi afición desmedida por la gastronomía se remonta, más o menos, al año 2006. Por aquel entonces arrancaba con este blog y comenzaba, tímidamente al principio, a compartir mis experiencias. Esto, sobre La Máquina en Lugones (Asturias), fue lo primero que escribí de un restaurante: una oda a una casa de comidas, a la fabada y al arroz con leche.

Con el paso del tiempo, ayudado por la curiosidad que me ha llevado a probar y probar, fui aprendiendo que lo importante es el cocinero, no el restaurante; que la vocación, el criterio, el saber hacer, el tener las cosas claras son permanentes y sólidos, mientras que la moda es efímera y superflua.



[Estas dos fotos del restaurante y la primera de la raya, más abajo, son de Sole Felloza]

En aquellos años, dos figuras protagonizaban la escena gastronómica gallega y alumbraban una brillante generación de cocineros de la que ahora disfrutamos desde Ferrol hasta Cambados, desde O Grove hasta Lalín. Al abrigo de Pepe Solla y Marcelo Tejedor, surgían nombres fundamentales en el presente de la cocina de Galicia. Entre ellos, Iván Domínguez.

La primera vez que me crucé con Iván fue en aquella gloriosa xantanza en Casa Marcelo, hace casi nueve años, todavía en un papel secundario. Tres años después, también en una xantanza, nos comimos el mar de Carril en el Loxe Mareiro. Ya al frente de la cocina - abierta, como la de NaDo y la de Marcelo; casi continuidad de la gran mesa común - nos dio un recital de producto, de lo que daban la zona y el verano: ya presentes los escabeches, los fuegos, los puntos perfectos.

En 2015, el nuevo lugar de encuentro fue el coruñés Alborada, durante muchos años mi restaurante de referencia en la ciudad desde que irrumpió en escena de la mano de Luis Veira. Escribía de aquella cena que había sido "un magnífico ejercicio de versatilidad y madurez, abordando desde un sutil tratamiento del producto (las espléndidas cigalas prácticamente crudas) hasta la cocina más tradicional (el jarrete estofado con patatas)". La visita anual a Alborada desde el lejano Chile - la perspectiva que da el tiempo - mostraba cómo esa versatilidad y madurez se iban consolidando, fiables.





La última cena en Alborada sobre la que escribía, en 2017, trataba de sintetizar la idea de su cocina en el postre final: "el flan es la síntesis perfecta de lo que ocurre en Alborada. El flan es un flan. Sin más. Un flan. Pero vaya flan, de quedarnos mirando los unos a los otros en la mesa. La mejor prueba de que lo sencillo puede ser sublime. De que hacer lo sencillo sublime es extremadamente complejo".

Hace unos días tuve la suerte de que un viaje profesional a España coincidiera con la apertura de NaDo, el primer proyecto personal de Iván. Y, por supuesto, a conocerlo nos fuimos. Manolo Gago describe muy bien lo que se puede encontrar en NaDo: básicamente, la coherencia con una trayectoria que he tenido la fortuna de seguir durante la última década.




Allí estaba esa cocina abierta, protagonista indiscutible entre unas paredes de piedra con mucha historia gastronómica. Allí estaba esa lamprea, delicada bajo el escabeche. La raya a la brasa, sabrosa y de punto impecable, con la salsa de sidra. Estaban también los berberechos al natural, la ensaladilla con peixe porco a la brasa o el jabalí. Estaba la carne asada de toda la vida, con las patatitas redondas y amarillas, deshaciéndose perfecta en la boca. Estaba la escogida carta de vinos que muestra el compromiso con la #MilitanciaAtlántica. Y estaba el flan. Sí, el mismo flan, el que da fe de que hacer lo sencillo sublime es extremadamente complejo. El que da fe de que lo importante es la trayectoria.

[NaDo / Callejón de la Estacada, 9 - A Coruña / 981.979433 / Ubicación]

48 comentarios:

  1. ¡Eso es realmente interesante! Prueba viral Nexter website para encontrar más noticias calientes sobre celebridades, películas y otras cosas interesantes

    ResponderEliminar
  2. I think this is one of the most significant information for me. And I’m glad reading your article. But should remark on some general things, The web site style is perfect, the articles is really great: D. Good job, cheers.
    general contractor fort lauderdale

    ResponderEliminar
  3. I have read your article, it is very informative and helpful for me.I admire the valuable information you offer in your articles. Thanks for posting it..
    commercial popcorn removal california

    ResponderEliminar
  4. This is a great article thanks for sharing this informative information. I will visit your blog regularly for some latest post.
    water damage restoration companies miami fl

    ResponderEliminar
  5. This post is good enough to make somebody understand this amazing thing, and I’m sure everyone will appreciate this interesting things.
    fort myers water damage restoration

    ResponderEliminar
  6. A superbly written article, if only all bloggers offered the same content as you, the internet would be a far better place. emergency restoration services tampa

    ResponderEliminar
  7. Nosotros lo probamos hace poco y es de lo mejor de Coruña

    ResponderEliminar
  8. I have read your article, it is very informative and helpful for me.I admire the valuable information you offer in your articles. Thanks for posting it..commercial ac unit palm beach county

    ResponderEliminar
  9. You have a good point here!I totally agree with what you have said!! Thanks for sharing your views. hope more people will read this article!!! kitchen remodel contractor parkland fl

    ResponderEliminar
  10. This post is good enough to make somebody understand this amazing thing, and I’m sure everyone will appreciate this interesting things.water heater expansion tank jacksonville

    ResponderEliminar
  11. Hello, I have browsed most of your posts. This post is probably where I got the most useful information for my research. Thanks for posting, maybe we can see more on this. Are you aware of any other websites on this subject?
    kitchen and bath remodeling chula vista ca

    ResponderEliminar
  12. I really appreciate this wonderful post that 토토 you have provided for us. I feel strongly that love and read more on this topic. I have spent a lot of my spare time reading your content. Thank you a lot.

    ResponderEliminar
  13. Hello, your post is a really interesting topic. It helped me a lot. In fact I also have a website with content similar to your posts. Please stop by. Thank you! 토토사이트

    ResponderEliminar
  14. helpful to me and I am sure to all the commentators here been going through the posts in your blog. 토토사이트

    ResponderEliminar
  15. The information you have posted is very useful. The sites you have referred was good. Thanks for sharing..professional lice removal

    ResponderEliminar
  16. The information you have posted is very useful. The sites you have referred was good. Thanks for sharing..We buy houses Fresno

    ResponderEliminar
  17. Your explanation is organized very easy to understand!!! I understood at once. Could you please post about 바카라사이트?? Please!!

    ResponderEliminar
  18. I was exceptionally satisfied to discover this site.I needed to thank you for this extraordinary read 사설토토사이트!! I certainly getting a charge out of each and every piece of it and I have you bookmarked to look at new stuff you 안전놀이터.

    ResponderEliminar
  19. I need you to thank for your season of this awesome 먹튀검증!!! I definately appreciate each and every piece of it and I have you bookmarked to look at new stuff of your blog an absolute necessity read 발삼 !!!!Hello ! I am a student writing a report on the subject of your post.Your article is an article with all the content and topics. I've ever wanted . Thanks to this, it will be of great help to the report I am preparing now.Thanks for your hard work. And if you have time, please visit my site as well. The site name is 토토커뮤니티.

    ResponderEliminar
  20. While looking for articles on these topics, I came across this article on the site here. As I read your article, I felt like an expert in this field. I have several articles on these topics posted on my site. Could you please visit my homepage? 온라인홀덤

    ResponderEliminar
  21. Good day! This post could not be written any better! Reading this post reminds me of my previous room mate! He always kept chatting about this. I will forward this page to him. Pretty sure he will have a good read. Thanks for sharing. 먹튀검증

    ResponderEliminar
  22. Are you looking for custom packaging for your CBD boxes? Well, look no further Because Custom CBD Boxes is here for you. There are two major reasons as to why you should use a customized box for your CBD boxes; market size and CBD unique position in society.

    ResponderEliminar
  23. I think this is one of the most significant information for me. And i’m glad reading your article. But should remark on some general things, The web site style is perfect, the articles is really great : D. Good job, cheers 먹튀검증커뮤니티

    ResponderEliminar
  24. Trying to say thanks won't simply be adequate, for the fantasti c clarity in your written work. I will immediately snatch your rss channel to remain educated of any updates. 먹튀검증

    ResponderEliminar
  25. Through this post, I know that your good knowledge in playing with all the pieces was very helpful. 토토사이트 I notify that this is the first place where I find issues I've been searching for. You have a clever yet attractive way of writing.

    ResponderEliminar
  26. I accidentally searched and visited your site. I still saw several posts during my visit, but the text was neat and readable. I will quote this post and post it on my blog. Would you like to visit my blog later? 온라인홀덤

    ResponderEliminar
  27. Hello
    Thank you for giving me useful information.
    Please keep posting good information in the future
    I will visit you often. Thank you.
    I am also running the site. 메이저놀이터 This is a related site, so please visit once.
    Have a niceday!

    ResponderEliminar
  28. Thanks for your nice post I really like it and appreciate it. My work is about Custom Vape Cartridge Boxes. If you need perfect quality boxes then you can visit our website.

    ResponderEliminar
  29. When did it start? The day I started surfing the Internet to read articles related to . I've been fond of seeing various sites related to 안전놀이터 around the world for over 10 years. Among them, I saw your site writing articles related to and I am very satisfied.

    ResponderEliminar
  30. Amazing knowledge and I like to share this kind of information with my friends and hope they like it they why I do. 검증업체

    ResponderEliminar
  31. When I read your article on this topic, the first thought seems profound and difficult. There is also a bulletin board for discussion of articles and photos similar to this topic on my site, but I would like to visit once when I have time to discuss this topic. 온라인홀덤

    ResponderEliminar
  32. I am overwhelmed by your post with such a nice topic. Usually I visit your 안전놀이터 and get updated through the information you include but today’s blog would be the most appreciable. Well done!This is a great post!I didn't overdo it because of the inflated content , and I feel that I tried to keep the reader from 토토사이트 feeling the burden with concise content.

    ResponderEliminar
  33. Your information was very useful to me. That's exactly what I've been looking for 메이저토토사이트!Hello, I am one of the most impressed people 메이저사이트 in your article. I'm very curious about how you write such a good article. Are you an expert on this subject? I think so. I'm also very interested in this topic. Just as your writing was interesting, I think you will also be interested in my writing. You can check my writing by .

    ResponderEliminar
  34. It's very interesting. And it's fun. This is a timeless article. I also write articles related to , and I run a community related to 안전놀이터. For more information, please feel free to visit !!

    ResponderEliminar
  35. I got a web site from where I be capable of really obtain valuable information regarding my study and knowledge.
    Great Article… Good Job… Thanks For Sharing…

    Website:오피사이트

    ResponderEliminar
  36. Nice to meet you. Your website is full of really interesting topics. It helps me a lot. I have a similar site. We would appreciate it if you visit once and leave your opinion. 토토사이트

    ResponderEliminar
  37. Thank you. I'll be back every day. Thanks on your marveous posting! Greetings! 토토

    ResponderEliminar
  38. my own blog and would like to find out where u got this from. but I believe it will help a lot in my country 안전놀이터

    ResponderEliminar
  39. Sweet blog! I found it while browsing on Yahoo News.
    Do you have any tips on how to get listed in Yahoo News?
    I’ve been trying for a while but I never seem to get
    there! Thank you
    Also visit my site:강남안마

    ResponderEliminar
  40. When I read an article on this topic, 먹튀검증 the first thought was profound and difficult, and I wondered if others could understand.. My site has a discussion board for articles and photos similar to this topic. Could you please visit me when you have time to discuss this topic?

    ResponderEliminar
  41. That's so nice.먹튀검증I want you to see if it's this good.

    ResponderEliminar
  42. The article composing business is going extraordinary for me at this moment, and the vast majority of my prosperity is because of the substance that you post here. I utilize your substance to compose my articles, and the substance makes my great article incredible. 온라인포커

    ResponderEliminar
  43. bespoke packaging boxes uk At Bespoke Packaging UK we strongly believe in the interests of bespoke packaging, which has multiple benefits.

    ResponderEliminar
  44. Your ideas inspired me very much. 토토커뮤니티It's amazing. I want to learn your writing skills. In fact, I also have a website. If you are okay, please visit once and leave your opinion. Thank you.

    ResponderEliminar