Con el paso del tiempo, ayudado por la curiosidad que me ha llevado a probar y probar, fui aprendiendo que lo importante es el cocinero, no el restaurante; que la vocación, el criterio, el saber hacer, el tener las cosas claras son permanentes y sólidos, mientras que la moda es efímera y superflua.
En aquellos años, dos figuras protagonizaban la escena gastronómica gallega y alumbraban una brillante generación de cocineros de la que ahora disfrutamos desde Ferrol hasta Cambados, desde O Grove hasta Lalín. Al abrigo de Pepe Solla y Marcelo Tejedor, surgían nombres fundamentales en el presente de la cocina de Galicia. Entre ellos, Iván Domínguez.
La primera vez que me crucé con Iván fue en aquella gloriosa xantanza en Casa Marcelo, hace casi nueve años, todavía en un papel secundario. Tres años después, también en una xantanza, nos comimos el mar de Carril en el Loxe Mareiro. Ya al frente de la cocina - abierta, como la de NaDo y la de Marcelo; casi continuidad de la gran mesa común - nos dio un recital de producto, de lo que daban la zona y el verano: ya presentes los escabeches, los fuegos, los puntos perfectos.
En 2015, el nuevo lugar de encuentro fue el coruñés Alborada, durante muchos años mi restaurante de referencia en la ciudad desde que irrumpió en escena de la mano de Luis Veira. Escribía de aquella cena que había sido "un magnífico ejercicio de versatilidad y madurez, abordando desde un sutil tratamiento del producto (las espléndidas cigalas prácticamente crudas) hasta la cocina más tradicional (el jarrete estofado con patatas)". La visita anual a Alborada desde el lejano Chile - la perspectiva que da el tiempo - mostraba cómo esa versatilidad y madurez se iban consolidando, fiables.
Hace unos días tuve la suerte de que un viaje profesional a España coincidiera con la apertura de NaDo, el primer proyecto personal de Iván. Y, por supuesto, a conocerlo nos fuimos. Manolo Gago describe muy bien lo que se puede encontrar en NaDo: básicamente, la coherencia con una trayectoria que he tenido la fortuna de seguir durante la última década.
[NaDo / Callejón de la Estacada, 9 - A Coruña / 981.979433 / Ubicación]
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